Empowering Artisans: How Saheli Women and a New Zealand Volunteer are Revolutionizing Ethical Fashion in Rajasthan
In a global fashion landscape often criticized for its exploitative labor practices and environmental degradation, a beacon of change shines brightly from Rajasthan, India. Saheli Women, a social enterprise dedicated to the economic empowerment of women, is meticulously weaving a new narrative for the industry – one centered on fairness, respect, and sustainable practices. This mission was recently experienced firsthand by Alexandra Simpson, a New Zealand fashion student and sewing teacher, whose three-month volunteering stint offered profound insights into the transformative power of collective action and ethical production.
Saheli Women: A Model of Ethical Empowerment
Founded with the explicit goal of uplifting women in rural Rajasthan, Saheli Women operates as a pioneering social enterprise. Its core methodology involves co-creating slow fashion garments with international fashion partners, deliberately moving away from the rapid production cycles of fast fashion. This approach not only champions traditional craft practices but also generates vital, meaningful livelihood opportunities for women who might otherwise face significant economic and social barriers.
The enterprise’s comprehensive array of services underscores its commitment to holistic production. These offerings span the entire garment creation process, including sample making, intricate handloom weaving, full-scale production, stringent quality assurance, packaging, and export. Beyond these operational facets, Saheli Women specializes in traditional textile arts such as block printing, eco-printing, and natural dyeing, alongside various textile solutions, techniques, and artisanal embroidery. Each step is imbued with a dedication to preserving heritage crafts while ensuring contemporary relevance and marketability.
The socio-economic context of Rajasthan, like many regions in India, presents unique challenges for women, including limited access to education, healthcare, and financial independence. Saheli Women directly addresses these systemic issues by providing a supportive ecosystem that fosters skill development, financial literacy, and overall well-being. By integrating these women into the global fashion supply chain under ethical conditions, the organization not only provides jobs but also cultivates a sense of dignity and agency.
Fairness and Respect: Pillars of the Saheli Model
At the heart of Saheli Women’s operational philosophy is a steadfast commitment to fair labor practices. Their artisans receive a fair wage that is a minimum of 50% higher than the national average income for comparable work within the garment industry. This figure stands in stark contrast to the prevailing wages in many parts of India and Bangladesh, where garment workers often struggle with remuneration barely meeting, or even falling below, the legal minimum wage, let alone a living wage. According to reports from organizations like the Clean Clothes Campaign, typical wages in these regions can be as low as 15-20% of what is considered a living wage, highlighting the significant impact of Saheli Women’s wage policy.
Beyond monetary compensation, working conditions at Saheli Women are designed to prioritize worker well-being. Artisans typically work 6 to 7 hours a day, a substantial improvement over the grueling 12-hour-plus shifts commonly endured by garment workers in conventional factories across the subcontinent. This reduced workday allows women crucial time for family responsibilities, rest, and personal development, contributing significantly to their quality of life and work-life balance.
Empowerment Beyond the Paycheck
Saheli Women’s commitment to its artisans extends far beyond fair pay and reasonable hours. The organization provides a robust suite of support services designed to empower women holistically. These include essential skills development training, which enhances their craft and opens doors to greater professional opportunities. Transportation assistance alleviates a common barrier to employment in rural areas, while comprehensive health insurance ensures access to vital medical care, protecting families from catastrophic health expenditures. On-site childcare support is a game-changer for working mothers, allowing them to focus on their craft without worrying about their children’s welfare. Flexible working options further cater to individual needs, promoting a truly inclusive work environment.
A paramount focus for Saheli Women is the conscious creation of a safe and welcoming work environment. This commitment actively combats gender, religious, and caste discrimination—pervasive issues in many parts of Indian society. By establishing a workplace free from such prejudices, Saheli Women not only adheres to ethical standards but also fosters a culture of mutual respect and psychological safety. The organization rigorously commits to an extensive list of fair trade principles, drawing guidance from the Ethical Fashion Initiative’s Code of Conduct. Furthermore, Saheli Women has adopted nine of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), integrating global benchmarks for sustainability and social equity into its operational framework. These SDGs include, but are not limited to, No Poverty (SDG 1), Zero Hunger (SDG 2), Good Health and Well-being (SDG 3), Quality Education (SDG 4), Gender Equality (SDG 5), Decent Work and Economic Growth (SDG 8), Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure (SDG 9), Reduced Inequalities (SDG 10), and Responsible Consumption and Production (SDG 12). By aligning with these goals, Saheli Women demonstrates a deep commitment to global development and responsible business practices.
Community Centers: Homes Away From Home
The physical spaces where Saheli Women artisans work are far more than mere factories; they are vibrant community centers designed to feel like home. These are joyous spaces where women socialize, share meals, brew and enjoy chai, and cook together. Children often accompany their mothers, adding to the familial atmosphere, and the centers regularly host celebrations of life and traditional Indian festivals. This open-door policy extends to the wider community, fostering a strong sense of belonging and cultural exchange.
Complementing the craft production, these centers also serve as educational hubs, offering workshops on a broad range of critical topics. These sessions cover human rights, feminism, menstrual hygiene, general health, and financial literacy. Such initiatives are crucial for empowering women beyond their economic roles, equipping them with knowledge and skills to navigate social challenges and assert their rights. This holistic approach ensures that empowerment is not just about income but about personal growth, awareness, and community resilience.
Alexandra Simpson’s Transformative Volunteering Experience
Alexandra Simpson, affectionately known as Ali, embarked on a three-month volunteering journey with Saheli Women, an experience that would profoundly shape her perspective on fashion and life. A fashion student at Whitecliffe, Ali had been deeply affected by the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh, a tragedy that killed over 1,100 garment workers and exposed the devastating human cost of fast fashion. Watching the documentary The True Cost (2015) further solidified her resolve to pursue a more environmentally conscious path in her daily life and professional practice. Now a sewing teacher and working for the renowned Aotearoa brand Ruby, Ali sought firsthand experience in ethical garment production.
Ali had followed Saheli Women on social media for years, drawn to their Mahi (work) and the values they championed. Recognizing India as an unparalleled global hub for in-depth learning about fashion and textiles, she saw an opportunity to immerse herself. "I wanted to be able to give my support, learn and get a hands-on experience of what it would be like alongside the women who make ethical and sustainably made garments from start to finish and how they are doing processes within fashion differently and changing the industry," Ali explained.
Her time in India proved to be a life-altering experience. "I learned a lot about sustainable fashion practices and it was a very expansive experience. I don’t think you can go to India and come back the same!" she remarked. Ali particularly emphasized the stark yet powerful contrast between India’s bright, colorful, loud, and sense-stimulating aura and New Zealand’s comparatively tranquil, small-town atmosphere. This cultural immersion was a potent catalyst for personal growth, with a highlight being her ability to connect deeply with the women at the center, despite minimal shared English and Hindi. "I will cherish the moments of just drinking chai outside with the natural dye ladies and yapping away about life," she fondly recalled, illustrating the profound human connection forged beyond linguistic barriers.
Redefining Collective Action in a Global Context
Following her immersive volunteer experience, Ali’s understanding of collective action evolved significantly. She now defines it as people coming together to support a shared vision, even when that vision stretches beyond individual imagination. At Saheli Women, this principle was constantly in motion. Despite language barriers, which presented an added layer of challenge, the team consistently found ways to "just make it work."
Ali was particularly struck by the international collaborations Saheli Women undertook. "At Saheli Women, we were working with international brands, which is pretty amazing to see how two cultures can come together and work together," she noted. This cross-cultural partnership, extending beyond geographical proximity to encompass diverse parts of the world, has been instrumental in sharing Saheli’s inspiring story globally. Ali experienced collective action instantly and consistently throughout the entire production process. "Whether that’s the pattern master showing the ladies a certain sewing technique or someone is off sick or away, so they all have to chip in to get the garments done! They all function together, which is beautiful. Collective action is constant." This continuous, collaborative effort ensures that production remains efficient and supportive, embodying the true spirit of a community-driven enterprise.
An Unforgettable Sense of Devotion
Ali’s experience at Saheli Women was not merely about production; it was deeply interwoven with the cultural and spiritual fabric of Rajasthan. She vividly recounted the evenings at the Bhikamkor Centre: "After a long day at the Bhikamkor Centre, the sun would set, a local village lady would play on a large drum, as Madhu and others would be doing puja at the temple and singing mother goddess songs. Everyone would be packing up whilst kids laughed and played."
This daily ritual left a lasting impression. "The first time I experienced this, it moved me, it was so powerful. It is one thing to create something that is empowering this community, but I find it so special to be interwoven with religion and spirituality. It’s such a sense of devotion." This integration of work, community, and spiritual practice highlights a unique aspect of Saheli Women’s model, demonstrating how traditional values can enhance and deepen the impact of ethical enterprises, fostering not just economic growth but also spiritual fulfillment and cultural preservation.
Altering Perceptions of Fashion and Community
For Ali, experiencing ethical fashion from the ground up provided a newfound level of respect and a genuine understanding of the immense hard work involved in manufacturing—a reality often unfathomable to most consumers. This immersive journey solidified her values, reinforcing the critical importance of garment repair, eco-dyeing, and the overarching principles of sustainability and circularity in the fashion industry.
"What you see on Instagram with any brand is the beautiful process and reaping of their hard work. I respect the hustle a lot. It’s nowhere near as easy as it seems to put the sustainable practices to work," Ali reflected. This candid observation underscores the often-invisible challenges and dedicated effort required to implement truly ethical and sustainable production methods, challenging superficial perceptions of "green" fashion.
Intangible Learnings for Life and Work
Volunteering at Saheli Women instilled in Ali many invaluable lessons transferable to her personal and professional life. She now places a greater emphasis on community and empowerment in her work. The strength, willingness to learn, and perseverance demonstrated by the women amidst various hardships were particularly inspiring. Ali observed that at Saheli Women, community truly is everything, characterized by a depth and vulnerability of shared experience within a safe space—values she believes have been sadly lost in many other societies.
"I find I’m already taking these in and applying them in my work and personal life. Yes, there can be differences within any culture, but this allows you to be more open, connect more deeply and appreciate what they have to offer," Ali concluded. Her experience highlights the profound personal development that can arise from cross-cultural engagement and firsthand exposure to impactful social enterprises.
How to Support and Get Involved with Saheli Women
Saheli Women continues to innovate and expand its reach. They have recently released their first menswear collection, named Jazam, an ode to the traditional Jazam Mattress and the spirit of community gathering. The collection features exquisite elements of Pattu weave, natural dyeing techniques, and intricate Shisha embroidery. Ali recounted her involvement in the collection’s photoshoot: "It was really amazing to support this photoshoot and there is so much meaning behind it. It was shot at both centres and at the sand dunes near the village. Everyone was involved and it was a magical day."
The Jazam collection, beautifully photographed by Mayuri Kataria, is now live and available for purchase. Interested individuals can explore their offerings and learn more about their mission on their website: https://saheliwomenshop.com/ or follow their journey on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/saheliwomen/. Supporting Saheli Women directly contributes to the economic empowerment of women artisans and the promotion of ethical, sustainable fashion practices.
Cultivating Collective Action: Small Steps, Big Impact
Ali firmly believes that collective action can be supported in numerous small, accessible ways, encouraging individuals to start where they are. Whether in the workplace or among peers, identifying one’s true passions for the greater good and taking incremental steps towards those causes can lead to significant change. "Research that and look into it, you’ll always be surprised by what other people have done to support the cause," she advises.
In professional settings, collective action doesn’t require a specific "sustainability" or "green" job title. Everyone plays a part in shaping a better future. Simple actions can include digitizing marketing materials, implementing digital business cards to reduce printing, suggesting carpooling or bike-to-work schemes, ensuring correct recycling procedures, or organizing team volunteering initiatives. These seemingly small changes, when adopted collectively, can lead to substantial positive impacts.
Among friends and family, reinventing the perception of "fun" and "cool" is a highly effective way to encourage collective change. Ali suggests promoting activities that are kinder to people and the planet, such as volunteering, supporting local upcycling and circular events, opting for op-shopping instead of mall visits, choosing indie cinemas over chain theaters, swapping clothes before a night out instead of buying new, visiting local produce markets, and dining at independent vegetarian restaurants instead of corporate chains.
At home, curating one’s social media feed serves as a constant reminder of what is important. Following activists, circular economy accounts, sustainability news outlets, eco-conscious creatives, and second-hand fashion influencers can foster continuous learning and inspiration. It is also crucial to actively seek out and amplify BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) and indigenous voices to learn about systemic injustices and cultivate true respect for both people and the planet.
Ultimately, the message is clear: profound change does not require grand gestures or individual perfection. It arises from the cumulative effect of collective action, demonstrating that a multitude of small, conscious choices can collectively transform industries and communities for the better.
